4 cafés in 2 citys. Places change: check opening hours before you go.
The café fills the courtyard of Morića Han, Sarajevo's only surviving Ottoman caravanserai, endowed by Gazi Husrev-beg's foundation in 1551 and rebuilt in 1971–74 after a fire. Coffee comes the traditional way, with a džezva, fildžan, sugar cube and water.
Order: Bosnian coffee
💡 Look up at the arcades for calligraphy from Omar Khayyám's poems.
The only café in Mostar's old bazaar that roasts and grinds its beans on site. The baristas show you how Bosnian coffee is made and explain how to drink it.
Order: Bosnian coffee
💡 Buy a bag of beans to take home; it is a few minutes from the Old Bridge.
Fewer recent sources for this one: check it's open before you go.
Husein Džirlo and his wife Dijana opened this one-room teahouse in 1997 after returning from abroad at the end of the war. It serves 53 teas, Bosnian coffee and, in winter, salep.
Order: Bosnian coffee · salep (winter) · herbal tea
💡 It seats about a dozen people; go mid-afternoon or be ready to wait.
Bosnia's first third-wave café, opened by Australian-Bosnian actor Rešad Strik and named after ćejf, the local word for slow, deliberate pleasure. It roasts next door as Ćejf Coffee Roasters and serves traditional Bosnian coffee alongside espresso.
Order: Bosnian coffee · flat white
💡 Espresso is about 3 KM and Bosnian coffee about 3.50 KM; it sits at the top of the Kovači lane above the bazaar.